Conquering Applecross Pass.
Bealach Na Bà
Scottish Gaelic for “Pass Of The Cattle'
A Journey Through Scotland's Highland Majesty
The Applecross Pass, also known as Bealach na Bà, is located on the west coast of the Scottish Highlands in the region of Wester Ross. It connects the village of Applecross to nearby villages like Kishorn and Shieldaig. The pass is part of the NC500 (North Coast 500) route, a popular scenic drive around northern Scotland.
This winding mountain pass is known for its hairpin bends, steep gradients, and stunning views, reaching an elevation of about 2,053 feet (626 meters) above sea level. The road itself is quite narrow and challenging, often described as one of the most scenic but demanding drives in the UK.
As with every driving tour in Scotland, taking your time and choosing the right weather is vital. Be aware that the Pass can be closed in winter due to snowfall. There are snow gates at both ends of the PassIt is not unusual for the route to be closed for several weeks at a stretch in winter.
With in the rugged beauty of the Scottish Highlands lies Applecross Pass, a road that winds its way through some of the most stunning landscapes Scotland has to offer. Tackling this road in a camper van or motorhome is not just a journey; it’s an adventure filled with breath taking scenery, and hairpin bends!! Make sure you keep your eyes on the road the incredibly beautiful often atmospheric views can be very distracting!!
Applecross Pass, is not your average road. It’s a single-track route that climbs steeply through the mountains, offering unparalleled views of the surrounding countryside. Built in 1822, this historic road has been traversed by travellers for centuries, providing a link between the remote village of Applecross and the rest of the Highlands.
The Challenge of the Pass; for travellers in camper vans and motorhomes, tackling Applecross Pass presents a unique set of challenges. The road is narrow and winding, with gradients reaching up to 20%. Drivers must navigate hairpin turns and steep ascents, all while keeping a close eye out for oncoming traffic.
In a camper van or motorhome, patience is key. The road demands a slow and steady pace, allowing drivers to safely navigate each twist and turn. But the reward for this patience is immense. At every bend, there’s a new vista to behold, from sweeping mountain panoramas to cascading waterfalls.
A Journey of Discovery
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Traveling up Applecross Pass is not just about reaching the summit; it’s about the journey itself.
Along the way, there are a few opportunities to stop and explore, and take a moment to soak in the tranquillity, but be sure Not to pull over and park at one of the much needed passing places.
While these passing places exist regularly along the Pass, there’s no assurance that one will conveniently appear just when you need it upon encountering oncoming traffic specially on the steeper parts of the climb up the pass.
In such situations, you must be ready to reverse into the nearest available passing place. I strongly advised against attempting the drive if you’re hesitant or uncomfortable with the prospect of reversing on a challenging road characterized by steep slopes and tight switchbacks.
Both camper vans and motorhomes offer a unique way to experience Applecross Pass. However, it’s essential to meticulously plan your journey and stay informed about weather forecasts.
There’s minimal margin for error if you encounter an unforeseen issue. During our ascent, the weather remained clear and dry. But being later in the day it was busier with increased traffic and cyclists.
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My motorhome, is equipped with front-wheel drive and has very occasionally faced traction challenges on exceptionally steep inclines, especially on wet greasy roads. In such conditions, driving up would have been risky. I certainly would avoid driving up in the wet in a campervan or motorhome, and I would avoid completely on wintery days when there is even the slightest chance of ice on higher mountain roads, with very steep drops on one side the road is narrow and not the place to try out your ice driving skills!!
On the top of the pass are parking spaces. On a clear day you can get incredible panoramic views across Wester Ross and westward to the Isle of Skye and the Hebridean islands.
Drive with us on our Applecross adventure. Up and down the Pass as I capture the stunning views from the top, and our journey back down from the air.
Tips for a Successful Journey;
Check Your Vehicle Before setting off, make sure your vehicle is in good working order. Check tyre pressure, fluid levels, and brakes to ensure a safe journey.
Plan Ahead: Research the route and familiarize yourself with any potential hazards or restrictions. Be prepared for narrow roads, steep gradients, and limited passing places.
Take Your Time: Applecross Pass is not a road to be rushed. Drive slowly and attentively, allowing plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and navigate each section safely.
Pack Essentials: Bring plenty of food, water, and supplies, as amenities along the route are limited. Don’t forget to pack warm clothing, as weather conditions can change rapidly.
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Origins and Construction
Applecross Pass, or Bealach na Bà in Gaelic, was not born of convenience but necessity. In the early 19th century, the remote coastal village of Applecross was isolated from the rest of the Highlands by rugged mountains and treacherous terrain. Recognizing the need for a reliable transport link, the local community embarked on an ambitious project to construct a road that would connect Applecross to the outside world.
Led by engineer Thomas Telford, construction of the pass began in 1814 and was completed in 1822 at a cost of over £1,000 per mile, a staggering sum at the time. Carved out of the mountainside, the road was a triumph of engineering ingenuity, featuring gradients of up to 20% and a series of hairpin bends that tested the skill and courage of those who dared to traverse it.
A Lifeline for the Community
For the residents of Applecross, the completion of the pass heralded a new era of prosperity. No longer isolated, the village was now connected to markets and trade routes, allowing its inhabitants to flourish. The road became a vital lifeline for the community, enabling the transportation of goods, livestock, and people to and from the remote Highlands.
But Applecross Pass was more than just a means of economic survival; it was a symbol of resilience and determination in the face of adversity. Despite the harsh conditions and formidable challenges posed by the rugged landscape, the road stands as a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Highlanders who call this remote corner of Scotland home.
A Lifeline for the Community
For the residents of Applecross, the completion of the pass heralded a new era of prosperity. No longer isolated, the village was now connected to markets and trade routes, allowing its inhabitants to flourish. The road became a vital lifeline for the community, enabling the transportation of goods, livestock, and people to and from the remote Highlands.
But Applecross Pass was more than just a means of economic survival; it was a symbol of resilience and determination in the face of adversity. Despite the harsh conditions and formidable challenges posed by the rugged landscape, the road stands as a testament to the indomitable spirit of the Highlanders who call this remote corner of Scotland home.
A Road of Legends
Over the centuries, Applecross Pass has become steeped in legend and folklore. Tales abound of travellers braving the treacherous conditions, of daring feats and narrow escapes, of ghosts haunting the mist-shrouded peaks. One of the most famous legends is that of the “Bealach’s Curse,” which purportedly befalls those who disrespect the mountain pass, bringing misfortune and calamity upon them.
But amid the myths and legends, one thing remains undeniably true: Applecross Pass is a road like no other, a journey through some of the most spectacular scenery Scotland has to offer. From its breathtaking vistas to its steep inclines and hairpin bends, every twist and turn tells a story, inviting you to step back in time and experience the magic of the Highlands for themselves.
Commencing in 1818 and concluding in 1822, the construction of the route to Applecross saw the Mackenzie lairds of the region contributing one quarter of the total expenses. Adjusted for inflation, the cost of the road exceeded £500,000 in today’s currency. Initially surfaced with coarse gravel, this made winter maintenance particularly arduous. It wasn’t until the 1950s that tarmac was laid down to improve the road surface.
Two hundred years ago, Highland towns and villages were solely linked by poorly maintained military tracks. However, within a mere two decades, this harsh terrain underwent a remarkable metamorphosis, courtesy of a massive road-building endeavour spearheaded by engineer Thomas Telford. Dubbed Telford’s Highland Roads, these arteries were constructed between 1804 and 1824, utilizing construction techniques prevalent in the early 19th century and demanding significant manual labour.
Preserving a Heritage
Today, Applecross Pass stands as a testament to the ingenuity and tenacity of those who built it. Although modernization has brought improvements to the road, much of its original character and charm remain intact, offering a glimpse into a bygone era.
Preserving the heritage of Applecross Pass is essential, not only as a tribute to the past but as a reminder of the importance of safeguarding our cultural and historical treasures for future generations.
As travellers continue to flock to this remote corner of Scotland in search of adventure and discovery, may they pause to reflect on the road’s storied past and the enduring legacy it represents.
The current road owes its existence to the influential Mackenzie landowners, who played a pivotal role in opening vast stretches of the west coast to traffic. Mackenzie of Gairloch served as the Member of Parliament for Ross-shire from 1797 to 1807, while Captain Donald Mackenzie of Applecross held the same position from 1809 to 1815. Captain Mackenzie’s popularity was such that bonfires were lit across his land to celebrate his election victories. With their extensive landholdings spanning from Lewis to Fortrose, these powerful proprietors wielded significant influence in Westminster when decisions regarding new Highland roads were being made.
A government grant covering 75% of the road-building program was available, with the remaining 25% funded by the landowners. However, the most challenging aspect of the project was finding a contractor willing to undertake the venture. The endeavour faced delays until May 4, 1818, when the first contract was signed for the Applecross section. The initial contractor lasted only three months, reportedly driven to madness by the relentless barrage of rocks and stones and the desolation of the remote Highlands.
Eventually, the Edinburgh firm John Reid & Son completed the project in September 1822 at a cost of £4,000, equivalent to around £500,000 today. Workers were paid one shilling a day, and the landowners covered expenses such as oatmeal for the contractors, blasting materials, and transportation. Described in an 1898 roads guide as “terribly steep” with a “wretched” surface, the Bealach na Bà underwent improvements in the 1950s, including the widening of three tight turns and the surfacing of the road with tarmac to accommodate the increasing number of visitors, particularly motorists seeking the challenge of this iconic route.
Once a vital artery for transporting livestock to markets across Britain, the Bealach na Bà is now revered as a challenging driving route, attracting thrill-seekers eager to test their skills on its winding curves and steep gradients.
Postnote
Upon further investigation, a fascinating contradiction emerges regarding the origins and funding of the Applecross Pass Road, challenging the notion that it was one of Thomas Telford’s projects. It seems improbable that Telford would undertake the endeavor of constructing a road to the village of Applecross. Instead, credit for this feat belongs to Mr. Mackenzie, from Applecross, who had previously executed Telford’s planned roads, including the now-unspick bridge.
It appears that Mr. Mackenzie, recognizing the necessity and opportunity, took it upon himself to construct the road to his own village between 1825 and 1826, entirely at his own expense. Originally composed of gravel, as was customary for the era, the road received an asphalt surface in the 1950s.
Prior to 1800, transportation in the West Highlands relied heavily on maritime routes, with land travel limited to foot or horseback. The establishment of a Parliamentary Commission for roads and bridges in 1802, under the supervision of engineer Thomas Telford, marked a pivotal shift. Over the subsequent two decades, more than twelve hundred miles of roads were erected in the Highlands, significantly altering the region’s accessibility.
In the Lochcarron area, notable progress was made under the Commission’s auspices. The road from Kyle to Strome Ferry was completed in 1813, followed by the Strome Ferry to Lochcarron stretch in 1817, with Mr. MacKenzie of Applecross serving as the contractor. His astute efforts were acknowledged in the Commission’s reports.
Meanwhile, Mr. MacKenzie continued to advance his interests, overseeing the completion of the road from Lochcarron to Shieldaig in 1819. However, it’s important to note that the renowned mountain road to Applecross via Bealach na Ba did not fall under the purview of the Parliamentary roads.
Instead, Mr. MacKenzie independently undertook its construction, resulting in the creation of the third highest public road in Britain, ascending to an impressive 2,050 feet.
In 1801, Telford was tasked with addressing the lack of a proper road network in the Highlands. Over the next two decades, the Parliamentary Commissioners for Roads and Bridges oversaw an ambitious road-building initiative. Before this effort, the Highlands predominantly relied on rough tracks ill-suited for coaches, with fords and ferries being the norm. The military roads constructed by Wade and later Caulfield in the 18th century had fallen into disrepair. Telford’s responsibility extended to constructing over 700 miles of new roads, along with more than 1000 bridges. His roads were engineered to accommodate both travellers and livestock, with the aim of alleviating poverty in the region. Landowners contributed to the project’s costs, recognizing the benefits of improved communication.
In addition to his work on roads, Telford undertook canal projects, most notably the Caledonian Canal, though he also played a role in smaller canals like those in Dingwall and Caithness. Following his success in road construction, Parliament tasked him in the 1820s building churches and parsonages in the Highlands and Islands spurred by the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars and the need for infrastructure in areas with large parishes.
Telford’s standardized designs enabled cost-effective construction and left behind recognizable structures that endure to this day.
The Highlands had gone under significant transformation after Telford’s interventions, with the establishment of a foundation for transport between previously isolated areas and improved access to churches. The expanded communication network spurred further development in various Highland regions. Telford’s engineering solutions were often innovative, evident in projects like the Caledonian Canal, the Mound near Golspie, and the use of iron bridges, as seen at Bonar Bridge.
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